Are We There Yet: My Trip to Laos

With my visa about to expire again (each entry into Thailand allows US citizens 30 days to explore), I had to leave Thailand for at least a few hours.  With the unexplored neighboring country of Laos being so near to me, I decided to make a trip out of it - why not?!  

Similar to planning and executing my trip to Cambodia, I had little knowledge of the country at large, nor did I have a firm plan or timeline.  I thought I'd take a bus to Vientiene, the capital city, and head north from there; the initial "plan" was to go through Vang Vieng from Vientiene, and then onto Luang Prabang.  I had ten days, a fresh journal, and about $300 for the entire adventure. Let's do this, Laos.

Because of the Songkran festivities in Chiang Mai, the bus company I wanted to use was closed for a few days.  By the time I got in touch with the company, AYA Service (which we had used to go to Pai and very much enjoyed), they only had tickets available going to Luang Prabang.  I hadn't even left, and already the "plan" was changing.  No problem.  One, please. 

When I arrived, as instructed, at the bus office on Tuesday morning, I was not surprised that I had to wait.  Thai time runs about a half hour behind schedule, which I usually openly embrace.  What did surprise me, however, was the three hour wait that ensued.  Luckily, a catch up session with my youngest sister provided ample entertainment and left me with a nice collage to remember the morning by...

I openly acknowledge that I will pay for posting this one day.  Probably soon.

We finally got on the road about three and a half hours after scheduled departure, and my reading and napping during the drive was only interrupted by a thirty minute stop in Chiang Rai, Thailand.  Having not visited Chiang Rai before I was excited to explore the famous Wat Rong Khun.  

We were able to visit the famous "White Temple" - it was very different from the traditional Thai wats I had seen before.  Despite it's outer color, the temple has a surprisingly dark theme.  

There were evil characters lurking everywhere.  From what I took to be sci-fi creatures emerging from the ground, hanging heads, and gargoylesque creatures "protecting" the wat, I had already had enough of it before I even entered the temple.

How do people meditate here? Chiang Rai, Thailand

Although I am a proud Georgia Tech graduate, I wasn't inclined to spend my entire thirty minute break exploring the World of Warcraft temple, and opted for snapping a few quick photos and heading to stimulate the local economy by purchasing a coconut shake from a nearby vendor.  

Once back on the road, the napping and staring out of the windows was continued by all parties in the minibus, myself included.  After a few more hours, someone's phone rang.  Immediately, the driver pulled over, turned around in his seat, pointed to me and shook his phone in my direction. 

Note: This event was as absolutely sudden, random, unwelcome, and startling for me in that moment as it is within the confines of this story for the readers. 

I had never spoken to the driver, nor could I even remember him actually taking our tickets when our journey began.  The extent of our relationship consisted of him honking a warning 'beep' two minutes before leaving Chiang Rai, which was our signal to re-board the bus. In my brief history, that didn't constitute phone buddies. 

Despite the randomness of the mobile phone incident, I already knew what the voice was going to say - something was not right.  As it does in situations such as this, my mind started to race.  Did I get onto the wrong bus?  Did I sleep through a necessary stop?  Why didn't I study harder in my Thai lesson to actually ask what is going on?  Knowing that I had no options, as his phone-waving was insistent and all eyes were on me, I grudgingly took the phone and whispered a confused and concerned 'Hello?' 

Shrieking into the phone from an unknown location was a female voice informing me that I was going to have to spend the night in this town and that "No bus tonight, you ask again tomorrow".  Umm, what does that even mean?

The driver took the phone back after I pathetically muttered "Sure", knowing that this slight detour would be for the best, despite my initial attempts to avoid it.  For the best is an understatement.

The Mighty Mekong River

When we arrived at the village where we would be staying, I began to make friends with the passengers who I had so willingly ignored for the previous 5 hours.  Luckily, Luiza, a Polish girl immediately asked me if I would like to room with her for the night.  As before, I was unaware of the options, or lack thereof, and was not about to balk at a new friend.  Of course, I want to be roomies!  

We unloaded our packs in the room, then took off to explore the village before dinner was served to us.  The exploration was uneventful, but I enjoyed my time with Luiza and became friends with some young Brits who were also part of our group. 

We didn't have a ton of options...

Early the following morning we were loaded into a flatbed truck and hauled to another small town, where we were fed breakfast and a liquid that they identified as coffee.  As the group of us finished eating, we were directed to a man who was separating us into "Speed Boat" and "Slow Boat" riders.  Everyone was planning to take the "Slow Boat", which would not arrive until the following night; the "Fast Boat" was notorious for crashing and fatalities.  I wanted the bus I was promised.

I felt bad for this man; without having prior knowledge of my situation he was about to received a loving ginger-wrath if a bus wasn't an option.   

Hi new friend!  Welcome to your worst nightmare - an angry Ginger with all the time in the world.  Get me a bus to Luang Prabang.  Thanks.  

This slightly psychotic wavelength of mine was picked up by two Israeli girls who were also looking for the "VIP Bus".  My borderline irrational insistence on a bus and absolute indifference to the audience watching me struggle to get it impressed them.  They joined the fight.

As for the details of the following hours, all I can say is that it included the following: another flat bed truck, a squat toilet, threatening to call the police, many languages, Google translate, two perfect travel companions, extreme use of hand gestures, a few curses (Note: these are universally recognized and generally the quickest way to get someone to understand your level of anger regardless of understanding the details of the exchange; they should be reserved for extreme situations; use responsibly), a border, a card-eating ATM machine, a rural market, many loud noises, a bus that had the windows blown out of it, and being started at the entire time.  

The hours ended with a VIP bus and it hadn't cost us a baht, shekel, dollar, kip, or riel more.  These Jewish girls were making me look like a big spender; I loved them from the beginning.

Royal Palace Museum, Luang Prabang

 When we arrived the following morning, as promised, to Luang Prabang, we immediately found a guesthouse and fell asleep for a few hours.  Rotem and Yafit were Israeli girls who had just completed their service in the Israeli army and were taking a few months to travel in South East Asia.  

Surrounded by stunning scenery

We had a great time exploring the city and surrounding areas over the following days, and I was beyond grateful at the travel gods who had put Rotem and Yafit in my travel path.  

Kids playing in the Mekong

 The following days were spent lazily soaking up the atmosphere and natural wonders that Luang Prabang had to offer us, as well as mixing with some of the locals.  

Rotem making friends

Exploring the famous Night Market, spending a day at Kuangsi Waterfall, stumbling upon some incredible street food vendors, escaping the afternoon heat in the riverside cafes, participating in morning yoga by the Mekong river, lounging and smoking shisha at Utopia, and chatting about our travels and lives were just some of the activities we found to pass the time.  

Avocado Shake after morning Yoga on the river - surprisingly delicious!  

View Overlooking Luang Prabang from Wat Chom Si

All too suddenly, Yafit was headed to Vang Vieng and Rotem and I decided our next adventure would be a three day trek into the jungles of Northern Laos.  Within a week, we had grown from slightly horrifying bus riders to relaxed and excited new friends.  

Straight out of a dream!

I am so grateful at their appearance on that fateful morning, and I am glad to say that I left Laos feeling refreshed, blessed, and excited for my next adventure.  My time in Laos, especially Luang Prabang, was wonderful.

Kuangsi Waterfall - Perfect Day!