North Africa to the Balkans by Way of Spain

Exploring Valencia, Spain

My first international trip ever was to Spain a few days after I turned 15.  It was a trip with my high school, and my older brother and good friend Margaret were among the other participants.  During our brief trip there, I remember being in complete awe of everything that we saw and did. 

Old city gate & walls in Valencia, Spain

Everything is so old!  How is this food so delicious?!  Why is everyone always smoking?! (Don’t they know how bad that is for them?!)  Why can’t we walk everywhere at home like we can here?!  OMG - everything is in Spanish!  Does anyone else know this place exists?  We have to tell them when we get home!

Traditional Valencian experience: horchata (drink) & farton (pastry) for breakfast

I walked away with a great experience, a few questions answered (though I’m not confident that all of the EU nations got the memo on the health hazards of smoking), more than a few amazing memories, and a newfound passion for traveling and exploring new cultures.

Cathedral of Valencia - do you notice the Star of David above the door? The Jewish community helped finance this church.

This past September, I booked a flight from Madrid (much cheaper than flying from my current location in Morocco) to meet my cousin and aunt in Dubrovnik for a Croatian holiday at the beginning of October.  

Mercado de San Miguel in Madrid

I decided to spend a few days leisurely exploring southern and coastal Spain before leaving for Croatia from Madrid.  Luckily, I was able to explore cities I had not previously visited, as well as to rediscover Madrid.  

Mercado Central in Valencia 

I arrived in Tarifa by ferry and made my way to Granada, only to find that all of the hostels were filled for the weekend.  That same night (or following morning to be exact) I made my way to the Red Nest Hostel in Valencia where I spent the following few nights.  

Afternoon at the Real Jardin Botanico in Madrid

One of my closest friends from high school studied in Valencia during university and was quick to offer a handful of great suggestions – mostly centered around food and drink, which everyone knows are always the best suggestions!  Together with new hostel friends I explored the Mercado Central, Horchatería El Siglo, and Horno de San Nicolás tasting and drinking our way through the city. 

Mercado Central in Valencia

After Valencia, I returned to Granada on the night bus intending to visit Alhambra, but due to some less than ideal weather conditions I enjoyed spending time at Fundalucia Guesthouse in Quentar instead.  There I met a handful of wonderful people and began working on my travel blog, The Globetrotting Ginger.  I hope that in the upcoming months I develop it into a substantial travel resource for friends, family, or anyone interested in backpacking.  After Quéntar, I made my way to my final Spanish destination, Madrid.

Cutting Jamon Iberico de Bellota in Mercado de San Miguel in Madrid

One afternoon while I was walking through Madrid, I was suddenly jolted back to my first time in the city while walking past a certain federal banking building.  The building is a normal bank with two massive lions on either side of the front steps.  I remember Margaret and I insisting on taking pictures with the lions outside of the front doors of the building.  In that moment, I was completely pulled back to my first experience here and found myself laughing at our 15 year old selves – if only we had the selfie-sticks of today to assist in capturing our photo shoot a decade ago!

Madrid, as expected, was wonderful.  The city never sleeps and has some of the greatest museums, parks and restaurants that one could ask for.  My favorite spot during this past trip was the beautifully landscaped and ever lively Parque de Retiro.  With the large pond filled with paddle boats, Palacio de Cristal, and Velazquez Palace, and perfectly manicured gardens and lawns, it’s easy to get lost in this wonderful city park.  

Bird Whisperer in Parque de Retiro in Madrid

Naturally, we became friends and he gave me some rice to feed his bird friends.

Another highlight of my time in Madrid was our luck at getting one of the highly sought after same-day reservations at Restaurante Botin, which the Guiness Book of Records recognizes as the oldest restaurant in the world.  

Outside of Restaurante Botin in Madrid

Knowing my passion for food, I could not pass the opportunity to taste their world famous cochinillo asado, even if it required waiting until 10:30 PM for the reservation.  Although we could barely afford to breath in the restaurant, we enjoyed the ambience and had to hold ourselves back from devouring every bit of the delicious food!

I also thoroughly enjoyed a visit to the Reina Sofia Art Museum and see Picasso's famous Guernica on my last afternoon in the city.  It was quite a treat for me after studying Spanish history during high school and university. 

Carlos III statue in Real Parque Botanico in Madrid

Not surprisingly, I fell in love with Spain all over again during my time there.  The amazing food, relaxed culture, beautiful parks, interesting museums, endless cafes and unique shops could keep me entertained forever. 

I don't think so? This street art message was sprayed all over Valencia.

Traveling to new places is always exciting for me, but revisiting old ones offers an unique, introspective experience.  I had not planned to visit Spain during my travels, let alone spend so much time there.  I had not previously visited Granada, Quéntar, Valencia nor spent so much time in Madrid, and I was glad to be afforded the opportunity to do so.  

I was also overjoyed to learn that my love for this incredible country has not wavered since my first visit all those years ago!  

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Morocco Part III: Chefchaouen

Riad balcony overlooking Chefchaouen at Riad Joe Baraka

Many weeks ago while I was initially planning my time in Morocco, I came across a fantastic travel blog called Legal Nomads.  Jodi's fabulous blog, pictures, and stories captured the spirit of Morocco, and Chefchaouen (or Chaouen) in particular, and after reading her article I knew 'The Blue City' was going to be at the top of my list during my time in Morocco.    

Street markets in Chefchaouen

During our trip into the Sahara, Michael and I met an incredible Vietnamese traveler named Anh who (like a responsible traveler) had her hostel arrangements sorted out for Fes and Chefchaouen, her destinations after our trip to Merzouga. 

Tall. Green. Plants.

 Although we knew we wanted to visit each of the cities, Michael and I had (like irresponsible travelers) not arranged anything, which always leaves room for the unexpected shenanigans that we  have so often experienced.  Anh was excited to have two new travel buddies and after briefly regrouping in Marrakech, we set off.

The quaint, peaceful streets of Chefchaouen

Luckily for us, when we arrived in Chefchaouen there was a surprise waiting for us.  Not only was there a room available for us at the same hostel, but Anh had reserved a room at the most incredible hostel I have ever stayed in, Riad Baraka.  (Seriously, book in advance.  That's serious advice coming from someone who doesn't reserve anything more than a day in advance!)

Great day at Cascades d'Akchour

The hostel is run by a hilarious British woman named Ann and is incredibly cozy, clean, well located, and (most importantly in a Muslim country) full of beer.  Or at least it was until we arrived.  Michael and I had died and gone to heaven.  Praise Allah.

On our way to the waterfall

We quickly checked in and went to explore the rest of the Medina and see what Chefchaouen had to offer us.

That was eight days ago.  

In that time I have shopped in the artisan markets, explored the Plaza Uta el-Hammam, sampled street figs and karmouss el hindi, basked in the glory of a traditional Moroccan hammam, attempted to transform into a Moroccan princess, hiked to the Cascades d'Akchour, visited a nearby farm and assisted in making traditional Moroccan hash, met new friends and have had countless genuine and reflective discussions while soaking up the atmosphere and fresh mountain air.  

Traditional Moroccan soaps for the hammam

To sum it up: my time in Chefchaouen has been perfect.  I can not convey the fun, laughter, relaxation, joy, cultural inundation, bliss and simple happiness that I have experienced in this wonderful town over the past week.  

View from the Spanish Mosque

The landscape is beautiful, the people are friendly and inviting, the food is (like all of Morocco) delicious, and the overall attitude is peaceful.

Princess Day for Maria and me - the henna was fun, but a fail!

I was blissfully unaware of how deeply I would fall in love with this city and the people I have met, and now I am instead simply blissful.  The thought of leaving tomorrow is breaking my heart, but I know that I will be back here one day...hopefully soon!

A small hair piece I received

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Morocco Part II: Sahara Shenanigans

Michael and I from the Granary (not pictured) in the Ksar of Ait-Ben-Haddou

When Michael and I sat down in Marrakech after our first day of adventuring together, we decided that we needed a game plan.  We did not want to nail down too many details, but with Michael having only a week in Morocco, we didn’t want to waste any potential camel time.

 

I had researched Sahara Desert trips before my initial arrival in Morocco.  From the many forums I had perused, I concluded that arranging a taxi would allow for more freedom in terms of time spent at each city and location along the way, as well as a better overall price compared to marked up tourist trap packaged deals.

Blissful in the Atlas Mountains

The endless sand dunes of the Sahara

I wanted to ensure that we would enjoy the journey and magnificent sights on the road from Marrakech including the impressive Dades Gorge, the High and Anti Atlas Mountains that I have learned about since 7^th grade geography class, and the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Ait-Ben-Haddou noted for Outstanding Universal Value.  

Overlooking the outskirts of Ait-Ben-Haddou

Outskirts of Ait-Ben-Haddou

Let me just say this: I was completely wrong regarding my initial leaning away from the packaged deals.  

Overlooking the ravines of the Atlas Mountain Range

After chatting with a few friends at Waka Waka Hostel, we quickly changed our minds and realized the packaged trips were the way to go – transportation, food, accommodations, camels, admission, you name it.  Everything was included (except for lunch both days) and arranged without haggling or disruptions. 

Bedouin-ready: before our camel trek into the Sahara Desert

For 800 dirhams, which is about 80 euro, we discovered the Moroccan countryside, visited world renown landmarks, sipped tea with a Berber family (originally marketed as a “Berber king”…I chalk that up to translation errors or a very sneaky marketing campaign), slept under the stars in the Sahara Desert, attempted to experience life as a Bedouin (though we opted for the vodka laden version), and got to meet and get to know 10 other international travelers. 

 It was the perfect way to explore the eastern, more rural parts of Morocco.  When we arrived back in Marrakech after our tour was finished, we were beyond grateful for our memories and to be welcomed back into Waka Waka for tea, shisha, and a beyond needed shower before continuing our journey onto Fez, a city to the north.  

Dadès Gorge with Michael

Looking out from Ait-Ben-Haddou

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Morocco Part I: Marrakech

Touching down on the tarmac in Marrakech, Morocco, I stared out of the window from on board my Ryan Air flight and took a deep breath.  It was the beginning of September.   Ahead of me lay a new month, a new country, a new continent, new experiences, a new language, a new culture, and the ever-present unknown of life on the road.  September was going to be, for me, a new slate.

 

I had enjoyed the past two months exploring, partying, and traveling around Europe meeting new friends and catching up with a few incredible old ones.  Traveling in Europe, like anything, has its pros and cons.  The countries are in such close proximity that it seems foolish to skip any of them, but then one’s schedule can become quickly overwhelmed with the infinite choices.

The price tag of most items in Europe (hostels, food, admissions, libations) is also reason enough to move at a relatively swift pace.  It’s easy to spend an additional night at a hostel charging 7 euro/night, but it is quite a different story to be doing the same for 25 euro/night, which is sometimes the case in larger European cities. 

All in all, I would not change my experiences or choices about the previous two months in Europe, but I was quite ready for a change of pace when I arrived in Morocco – both for my wallet and myself.

Around Marrakech 

As the bus pulled into the Medina of Marrakech, I saw donkeys hauling goods alongside busses and cars swerving with no regard to the traffic lanes.  There were horns honking, people shouting, and endless pedestrians mindlessly participating in Human Frogger where they would dodge across the multiple lanes and whizzing vehicles to safely arrive in the madness of Jemaa El-Fna.  I loved it.  After the mind numbing organization and cleanliness of Germany, the chaotic atmosphere was refreshing. 

After a confusing and sensory overloaded hour in the main plaza and winding souks, I finally arrived at my hostel Waka Waka.  The sun had just set, and the hostel was filled with Moroccan lights and candles, which gave the common room space a magical glow.  Hussein, the manager, immediately brought me tea and invited me to join him for shisha, an offer that I happily accepted after my day of traveling.  During our chat he offered dining and shopping suggestions around the city, and I added them to my already quite impressive list of suggestions from a friend from high school.

In Jardin Majorelles 

My friend Sarah had recently been living in Marrakech for two years during her contract with the Peace Corps, and had been gracious enough to map out top choices for food, city attractions, events around Marrakech and much more.  When I wrote her that I would be visiting Morocco, she responded with her suggestions and then followed it up with “That was the most overwhelming Facebook message I’ve ever sent!” if that gives you an idea of the length and depth of information - it was absolutely amazing, and I owe her more than a few tagines for her time and advice! 

Tanneries in Fez, Morocco

On my first morning in Marrakech I sat across from a fellow American traveler named Bobby.  During our brief exchange of introductions, we decided to play ‘The Name Game’ (naming a person who you know that has some small usually insignificant quality in common with a new person; it usually ends with “Oh I know that was probably a long shot, but I thought I’d ask!), a usually insane way to pass the time given that we were from opposite sides of a country that was on the other side of the world. 

The first name he threw out: Patrick Darsey.  I not only knew him, but I was friends with him from Georgia Tech.  It turns out that Bobby was a roommate in Australia with Patrick – imagine the odds!  After our minds were blown at our mutual friend, we decided to explore together.  Bobby and I set off through the Medina and Gueliz parts of the city for the day, and managed to hop onto a “free” tour that turns out had been quite expensive for the people who actually paid for it.  

We were rewarded for our acting efforts with a fabulous tour of the souks, an in depth presentation of traditional medicinal herbs and oils in a Moroccan Pharmacy, and free beverages.  We were quite pleased with ourselves as we headed back to the hostel to relax before going for dinner in the Jemaa El-Fna that night with a few other friends from Waka Waka.

During my time in Marrakech, I was lucky enough to meet a few locals, and see the city through their eyes.  Nicky, a friend from Waka Waka, introduced me to her boyfriend and a few of his friends on my first day in the city.  It was great to have so many friends to ask for advice and suggestions upon my initial arrival and to keep in touch with while I was traveling throughout Morocco. 

Chameleon at Waka Waka

I met one particular local through the infamous love app, Tinder.  After being matched, Amine and I decided to meet at Café Clock, a cool cultural exchange café that Sarah had recommended for a visit for traditional Moroccan story telling.  I wanted to check it out, and like all Tinder excursions if it went horribly I could feign illness and simply scurry back into the Medina.  Luckily, it didn’t go poorly.  Quite the opposite, actually.  Except for the part where a girl from my hostel thought he was trying to kidnap us because he got lost in his own city…but that’s a story for another day.

Helmet Selfie! 

Quick back-story: Sarah’s father-in-law, Hajj, is a famous Moroccan storyteller, and he performs every Thursday at Cafe Clock in Marrakech.  He is incredibly talented and famous throughout the country for keeping this traditional alive.  

With Hajj at Cafe Clock

The intimate and spacious Café Clock was the perfect location to experience traditional Moroccan story telling, although Amine continued to remind me that I had no idea what was being told because I don’t speak Arabic…so much for trying to blend in!

After our dinner at Café Clock, Amine and I spent the next few days together.  He invited me to watch his friends play soccer (which looks exactly like our indoor fields at home), explore the city and many cafes from the backseat of his motorcycle and visit his family’s home for a real home cooked Moroccan meal.  It was unreal. 

Think some sexy scene with a Vespa and a Hollywood actress zipping around Italy.  Now add a little bit of dirt and a lot of sweat, and that was my life.  It was so much fun!

By the time that Michael (a hostel friend from Retox in Budapest) arrived later that week, I felt like I had been there forever.  Michael and I explored a few new parts of the city, visited the Jardin Majorelle, ate at Café Tiznit (twice…this was another incredible suggestion from Sarah!), explored the nightlife in Marrakech with Amine, and set out the rest of our plan. 

In Jardin Majorelles in Marrakech

I should interject that Michael is the perfect travel buddy.  After only knowing him for a handful of drunken hours in Budapest, I was unsure of how we would travel together, but it went perfectly.  First of all, he talks to more people than I do, which is impressive.  If I left him alone for more than three minutes, he had two new friends.  

One of Michael's first friends in Marrakech - the lead singer from the club

I fell asleep on the bus with him, and when I woke up we had another awesome addition to our travel clan, Anh (more accurately, we decided to become leeches to Anh and follow her around Morocco).  Michael was always up for a party, and in a country that made alcohol possession and consumption a challenge, Michael rose to it every time. 

Rabbit & Raisin Tagine at Cafe Tiznit

One of my favorite memories: Michael commanding the bus driver to a nearby village and demanding he find a store that sold something with an alcoholic percentage.  We were not ruling out mouthwash.  As he entered the store, the cashier pointed to a door with a “Do Not Enter” sign on it.  Michael busted through the door, then went down a hall and busted through another one.  

Brorocco.

Immediately, we heard shouts of celebration and hurried after him.  In what only can be described as Prohibition style, there was a startled Moroccan stocking the shelves of an otherwise secret room.  Within moments, our bus had emptied and everyone was grabbing at bottles of vodka, beers, wine bottles and anything else they had on the rickety shelves.  It was hilarious, but it also made for a hilarious drunken camel ride later that day.  

Michael & me in the High Atlas Mountains

Seriously, riding camels would not have been the same without the group swapping vodka swigs and stories during our voyage.  Well done, Brorocco.

In front of the Medina wall in Fez

 As I mentioned, we joined forces with Anh after our Sahara trip, and were lucky that each of the hostels she had booked had additional rooms for us.  Our next stop after Marrakech and the desert trip was Fez. 

Ahn and me in Fez, Morocco

It was a quick two day/one night visit, but we managed to see the majority of the Medina of Fez, the infamous tanneries, taste more delicious Moroccan cuisine, and relax before heading onto our final travel-family destination: Chefchaouen.

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