28.8.14

My Third Trip to Budapest

Well, it really wasn’t, but accommodations make all the difference.  During my final iteration of my Budapest time I was back in my hostel lifestyle.
Matthias Church, Budapest
The city is actually pronounced Budapesht, and is divided into two distinctive areas: the eastern, residential, and hilly Buda side and the western, flat, and trendy Pest (again: pronounced Pesht) side.  One of most magnificent buildings I have ever seen is the Parliament building, located on the Pest side; it is breathtaking, especially when it is lit up at night.  I wanted to revisit it before I left, as well as a few noteworthy locations and run an errand or two before I repacked my backpack for my next destination.
One of my errands included visiting the nearest post office and sending two packages home to the States, which is a cultural experience to say the least.  Although the idea behind every post office is inherently the same, there are a handful of potential quirks that make national offices unique.  I think post offices are a decent cultural gauge - the levels of organization, attitudes, and general efficiency are usually telling of the nation at large.

In Bruges, I was unable to speak with the post office attendant because I hadn’t taken an almighty ticket from the machine at the door, despite the fact that the office was completely devoid of people, save Jennifer and myself.
In Thailand they had a ticketing process, as well, and an automated board to signal your turn at one of the few desks.  They provided extensive packaging, which was sold at a different desk, no ticket necessary.  The offices were usually brimming with families, friends and relatives who were talking animatedly and usually interested in seeing what I was sending and where I was from.  The greatest part of this seemingly organized situation was that you could take 45 minutes at the desk (addressing envelopes, calling friends to determine addresses, take a nap – whatever you needed to do!) and they would never ask you to move aside.  The wait was agonizing, but no one minded.  I guess that’s why they bring their family and friends.
In Hungary, in a twisted half disgruntled government employee and half unhappy Central-Eastern European fashion, the woman at the post office did not want to deal with me.   Her grunts, sighs and eye rolling were evident from the moment I stepped up to her desk, no ticket in hand.  After an agonizing few minutes of her speaking to me in Hungarian, I finally secured the boxes from her that I would be using to send my items home.  I left her desk and sat by myself on the floor and addressed the boxes and returned to finalize the process with the same joyful woman.  She grunted again, scribbled a number on a scrap paper with the amount that I assumed I owed and then said in perfect English, “You don’t need anything else.  You can leave now”.  I left feeling quite incompetent and a little annoyed.  Too bad I can’t play the “I’m a taxpayer” card here…
Great reminder on my hostel keys
After my morning of making Hungarian friends, I headed for my favorite part of most cities: the green space and art museums.  Budapest has a particularly beautiful and well-planned green space called Városliget, or City Park, which is home to the famous Széchenyi Medicinal Bath House, Heroes Square, Vajdahunyad Castle and two beautiful museums. 
As I walked through the Vajdahunyad Castle and read historical and cultural tidbits from my hostel provided guidebook, I found myself trying to appreciate how much history surrounds Hungary.  With the shifting boundaries, changing heads of states, and intermarrying monarchs I was more grateful for our “young” nations’ rather straightforward history (think pre-WWI, not today) than ever before.  The depth and detail of history can be dizzying (another reason why you should do a Free Walking Tour – they strike the perfect balance of information and entertainment!).  
After a few hours of walking through Városliget in the blissful weather, I decided to splurge on a visit to Szépművészeti Múzeum, the Museum of Fine Arts, where a Henri Toulouse-Lautrec exhibit was being shown.  Before the exhibit, I was familiar with his works but not his life or personality.  The exhibit was educational and enjoyable, despite it being days from closing and brimming with excited tourists and locals, alike.

One of my final stops of my trip was a visit to the Central Market Hall where they have endless stalls of fruit, meats, cheeses, and alcohol.  The market area is two stories and is surrounded by small food stalls on the top floor overlooking the vendors below.   They had every sort of Hungarian specialty available and even some Middle Eastern foods.  Everything smelled heavenly! 
I strolled down the Danube while heading back to my hostel and tried to recall all of the fun, misadventures, and stories from my time in Budapest.  It had been quite a whirlwind and it is still strange to think that the three different versions of Budapest could have even occurred the same city. 

20.8.14

Sziget: Besties on the Island of Freedom


Caitlin and Damian at the Sziget Festival
 For the past few days I have been hanging out in Budapest with my best friend from university, Damian. 

A few months ago when I told him that I would be in Europe during the summer, we decided to meet up in Budapest for the Sziget Festival.  I had no idea what Sziget was at the time, but after watching this video I was sold on it.  He arranged everything, which also made my decision quite easy.  We would stay at Retox Party Hostel for the festival days then stumble down the street and enjoy the fruits of his legal labor at the Hilton Budapest for the following three days.

I decided to arrive in Budapest a few days before Damian to check out the hostel and ensure that it was up to our standards for fun, and the only thing that disappointed me upon my arrival was that he was two days away. 

The place was an Animal House on steroids.  The Retox website is very clear about it’s rage-expectations for all travelers who choose to stay there, and it very strictly states that absolutely no one over 35 or lame or both is welcome. 

Upon checking into Retox, a twenty-something Brit who identified himself as Pixie took my deposit and passport then handed me a map of the city and asked if I was actually going to do anything touristy around Budapest.  With my three hours of sleep from the night before, I decided that I would attempt to see the city before Retox sucked me in.  Although he seemed surprised at my response, he pointed out a handful of popular tourist spots.
Overlooking the Pest side of the city from the hilly Buda side
After Pixie handed me the map, he very clearly explained the house rules: don’t eat food that is not yours, don’t bring drugs into the hostel, and don’t die during your stay at Retox.  Check, check and check.  Let the party begin.

I spent a few hours wandering around the city, but eventually exhaustion overtook me from my early flight and I headed back for a quick nap at Retox.  

Let’s review that last sentence: I headed back for a nap at a party hostel.  It obviously never happened.
Around Pest
Hanging out with new hostel friends, exploring the famous Budapest ruin pubs and meeting up with Caitlin (another fellow Techie) helped pass the time until Damian arrived on Friday.  Caitlin is currently working on a project in Poland, and was luckily able to make a long weekend out of Sziget.  We have many mutual friends from our time at GT, but we had never actually hung out together.  It was fate that this weekend worked out, and I can definitely say that I now have a new soul sister.

Damian arrived Friday afternoon, and all I can say for our time at Sziget and the following days at Retox is that it was hilarious, ridiculous, and something that I don’t know if I would survive again.  I won’t attempt to explain our shenanigans (for both legal and moral reasons), but we had a great time and were somehow able to follow all of those strict hostel rules.
Necessary kiosk at Sziget
Three days, a handful of questions, and a few forints later we were packing our bags to leave Retox.  I didn’t take a picture of us when we were leaving, but suffice to say we were subhuman as we trekked the two kilometers to our next destination.  

When we arrived at the Hilton Budapest, I was shocked that they not only let us check in, but also proceeded to upgrade us to the Executive Suite.  The concierge was suspicious, as she should have been.  But honestly – is this real life?  The last upgrade I received was to a top bunk.  Damian laughed and just said, “Welcome to my life.”
Masks and champagne - yes, please!
Sitting in the executive lounge as I type this and having my complimentary sparkling water refilled by the lounge attendant makes me question how I have survived in hostels for the past eight and a half months.  Kidding…kind of…

After each of us showered the Retox/Sziget aftermath off of us we decided to take a Budapest Free Walking Tour and actually explore the city that we had been destroying for the previous days.  It was a great overview of the history and culture of Hungary, and we enjoyed it so much that we joined the Communist Free Walking Tour the following day.  I am staying in Budapest for a few more days, so hopefully I can share some of our findings in another post.

After a difficult day of busting our asses as tourists, we returned to our perfectly cleaned room to a bottle of champagne and two flutes next to a plate of macaroons.  Yep, I could get used to this.
"Popping bottles and blackheads" - Damian
We shopped, dined, explored and gossiped about the past 8 months and all too quickly this morning came and Damian left me for Berlin.  I cried after he left until I realized I still had a few solid hours to enjoy the Executive Lounge. 


After the assistant brought me a sparkling water, he asked if he could book a taxi for me.  If you would be so kind, sir, I’ll be going to the exclusive Budapest Backpackers Hostel…

14.8.14

My Time in Scandinavian Heaven

In my opinion, there is nothing that compares to seeing a city through the eyes of a local.  The Internet with its endless blogs and city guides are not to be dismissed, but the experience and guidance of a local is the best way to explore, hands down.  I was lucky enough to have an amazing friend and guide in Johanna for my time in Sweden.
Machu Picchu in Peru (2008) 
Jo and I met back in 2008 through Lexi, a friend and classmate of mine at Georgia Tech.  We backpacked through Argentina, Chile, Bolivia, and Peru together over a five week period – quite a way to get to know someone.  As I’ve mentioned, traveling for an extendedperiod of time takes you from zero to “soul sister” level in no time, and that is exactly how Jo and I parted ways after our time in South America.  We had an amazing adventure, and vowed to keep in touch. 

A few years later, she was visiting the States and was able to squeeze in Atlanta.  It was a great catch up trip, but because of Waffle work and course loads I was unable to spend as much time being a good host as I would have preferred.  As always when we parted, she invited us to visit Sweden anytime and we promised it wouldn’t be long.
In front of Perito Moreno Glacier in Argentina (2008)
As Jennifer and I were plotting our European travels earlier this year, I sent Jo a message via Facebook.  I was curious if she was going to be traveling or if she wanted to see a familiar ginger’s face.  Within minutes of my message she had responded, and I was purchasing my ticket.

Though this reflection is tardy in terms of sharing with everyone, my memories are still vivid of my incredible time in Stockholm.  It is easy for me to say that Stockholm, Sweden is one of my new favorite cities.  Throughout my time there, I found myself thinking and saying constantly to Jo: I could actually see myself living here. 
The narrowest street in Gamla Stan
In my opinion, there is nothing not to love about Stockholm, especially as a visitor.  The people are gorgeous; English is (perfectly) spoken everywhere; the green space is remarkable within the city, and via a quick ferry or short drive you have absolutely stunning natural landscapes; there is a great hipster-chic vibe, which is evident in the fashion, cuisine and entertainment throughout the city. 
Swedes know their candy - there is a display like these in almost every store.  Kid's dream!
In my time there, I saw some of the most attractive people that I have ever seen in my life walking down the streets of Stockholm with the wind rustling their perfectly ginger (imagine my excitement!) or blonde hair.  Their skin is tan and their style is impeccable. Think life inside of an IKEA magazine while everyone is wearing H&M. 

With the generous two-year maternity leave in Sweden, a common sight is a stroller wielding couple with a baby who has more style than I could ever dream of.  Perfect little families dot the parks, cafes, restaurants, and streets of Stockholm.  Jo said that they even have a word for new mothers who go from café to café meeting friends for ‘fika’ throughout the day – 'caffe latte moms'.

The green space throughout Stockholm is wonderfully relaxing and the parks and natural landscapes across the city and surrounding areas are truly breathtaking. Being situated amongst a group of islands, Stockholm has a diverse terrain and surely has something to offer everyone. 
Perfect day around Gamla Stan
During my time with Jo we explored the entire city and surrounding areas.  She was excited to take a week (of her 6 per year…packing your bags yet, America?) off work as a “staycation” and re-discover some of her favorite places in the city.  How lucky am I?  My own tour guide and getting to catch up with Johanna at the same time – perfection!  Restaurants, parks, boutiques, bars, museums, and islands – we did a bit of everything.  
Lunch at Rosendals Wärdshus
Our first day together, we lunched at Rosendals Wärdshus in the park located in the Djurgården area, a great space full of manicured gardens and cute cafes.  We spent afternoons popping into the vintage and hipsters shops around the city, and other ones meandering the streets of Gamla Stan, the Old City.  
View at our lunch at Artepelag
Another fantastic lunch of ours was during our day exploring the surrounding islands when we visited Artipelag, a contemporary art museum and restaurant overlooking the Swedish forests and ocean.  Our evenings and nights were spent wandering the trendy streets of Södermalm and our greatest difficulty was deciding which of the bars and restaurants should make up our itinerary that day.
The trail to Artepelag through a perfect Swedish forest
We took a day to explore the nearby island Fjäderholmen where we had a great view of the city and the many cruise ships and sailboats coming in and out of the port.  There were moments that I thought I was in a postcard.  The island may be small, but it has fantastic scenery.  Of course, no Swedish trip would be complete without a proper fika, which Jo and I had perfected. 
Our afternoon on Ostra Fjaderholmen
One of my highlights was the traditional Swedish crayfish boil that Johanna had planned for my visit.  She had invited her sister and brother-in-law and her friends to come over and show me how true Swedes celebrate their traditional August crayfish feast.  Singing Swedish drinking songs, endless shots of schnapps, and finding the perfect crayfish to fit our noses was just the beginning of our hilarious evening.  I loved getting to meet and spend time with her friends and family, and can safely say that I have some solid contributions to add to any Southern crayfish boil in the States now. 

Sunday night her sister and brother-in-law graciously invited us to their beautiful home about 20 minutes away from Johanna’s apartment.  The following day was their first day back to work after their summer holiday, and Roger decided to grill ribs and chicken for us.  When you’re traveling it is easy to forget how delicious home made meals can be, but when you have someone who is a magician in the kitchen it makes it that much better.  Getting to meet Jo's nephews was also great fun, especially since they are studying English at school.

Fotografiska, Stockholm
Another favorite experience of mine was our visit to the Stockholm photography museum, Fotografiska.  I could spend all day in art museums, but this one impressed me more than most.  One of the exhibits was showcasing an international travel photographer Sebastião Salgado.  His pictures made Jo and I wanderlust (I know, I’m a travel addict – planning future trips while already on the road) and recall some of our favorite spots in South America, including the Perito Moreno Glacier. 

Between my time with Johanna, the authentic Swedish experience I had, and the amazing city of Stockholm I am beyond grateful for the way my August began, and hope that another visit (or even a move) to Stockholm is in my future!

10.8.14

Kaunas, Birštonas, and Riga, Oh My! The Tail End of My Baltic Tales

10.8.14 Posted by Nikki Carlson , , , , , No comments
Monk's Bunks, my Kaunas hostel entrance
If you read the entire title of this post, you can probably deduce that I've been on the move.  I didn't have too much time to explore the Baltic States, but what I did see and experience was a great "taste test" of the region.  

I wanted to soak up as much of the Baltic culture as I could before my arrival in Stockholm last Tuesday, and I think I did decently for myself.  At least I have some pretty entertaining stories (not unlike the rest of my travels) such as the stag party I accidentally became a member of, or getting propositioned and subsequently groped by an elderly Lithuanian man in the spa town of Birštonas that I was invited to visit by a hostel friend.  

Oh, traveling!  You always leave me with something new and crazy. 

Over the past week, I have been having an incredible time exploring Sweden and catching up with my wonderful friend Johanna.  I honestly have not felt inclined to stop our fun to recap my Baltic adventures in detail, so I apologize to those of you who are holding your breath for my Lithuanian and Latvian reviews.  

On my final leg of the trip here I was finishing a book by my favorite author, and in one of his essays he shared an experience of his pertaining to international travel.  I think my experience in the Baltic States can be summed up by a short excerpt: 

"And isn't that the joy of foreign travel - there's always something to scratch your head over.  You don't have to be fluent in order to wonder.  Rather, you can sit there with your mouth open, not exactly dumb, just speechless."
If you don't know what to get me for a present, here's a clue!

9.8.14

A Confusing Approach to Hospitality: Lithuanian Travels in Vilnius & Trakai

9.8.14 Posted by Nikki Carlson , , , No comments
Trakai, Lithuania

The quest for my international bus ticket from Poland to Lithuania took me around the city of Gizycko like a little marble in a pinball game.  Though the city is quite small, my ticket acquisition was nothing short of an act of divine intervention.  I approached the train station on a whim on my last day in Gizycko to determine my options for departure from the nearly perfect lakeside town, and after a short game of charades and a half an hour walk I had secured my ticket. 

The bus was going to leave at 00:20 from a bus stop down the street, or at least that is what I think the woman who sold it to me was indicating by her aggressive gestures.  I spent the rest of the afternoon wandering around the pier and soaking up the sun while watching the sailboats and wind surfers. 

With my bags packed I headed for the bus stop around midnight - nothing official, just a small bench and a questionable amount of empty beer bottles next to one of the notoriously animated and confusing road signs.  I spotted a drunk lingering near the bench.  Tunnel vision: new friend on the horizon. 
Old Town in Vilnius
I lumbered up to him with all of my belongings, and shoved my ticket in his face.  He took it and grunted some positive sounding noises while pointing at the ground and then his wrist.  Perfect, I thought, now I just have to wait a few minutes for the bus.  I am grateful for my lack of dignity at this point in my travels; it comes in quite handy at times.

A few more minutes in the dimly lit street with my new friend and another woman appeared.  She was talking animatedly with a man who seemed to be her son.  She was holding what appeared to be a small Christmas tree and a purse – what else are you supposed to pack for international travels?

Christmas Tree Woman became my bus mate, and as indicated by my intoxicated buddy, the bus arrived promptly at three taps on the wrist, or in sober lingo: 00:20.
The Baltic Way
Christmas Tree Woman was seated near the window and immediately spoke to me in Polish with a smile on her face.  I assume she was asking where I was going or what I was doing without my holiday decorations in July.

“Umm, sorry.  English only” I said feeling strangely embarrassed despite the fact that I have been doing this for weeks.  I felt bad that I was unable to communicate with such a seemingly sweet and enthusiastic woman.

“Ah, my English no good.  I try.  You work in Vilnius?”

“Oh! No, it’s wonderful!  No, I don’t.”

“Well, then you live there, no?”

“No, I am just visiting.”

Immediately scrunching her face she practically spat at me “What?  You visit Lithuania?  I don’t see.  Why to Vilnius?”

“I just wanted to visit and see the country.”  Right?  I began to ask myself.  I think that’s why I got onto that bus…?  Did I need another reason?

She took one more moment to evaluate me, and then suddenly decided she was tired of my bullshit answers and snuggled up to the window without so much as a ‘Good night’. 

Great, this looks promising.
Wolves are the mascot of Vilnius
As soon as I arrived in Vilnius at 5:30 AM, I was disappointed to have to say goodbye to my Christmas Tree Woman after we had gotten off to such a great start.  I found and reserved a hostel room via the wifi nearby and headed towards its location, which was about a ten-minute walk from the bus station. 

On my way down the street, I noticed some girls dressed in nice outfits from the night before mixed in with people obviously on their way to work – what a great time to evaluate the city!  
Adorable cafes in Vilnius
I arrived and had to wait outside until 8 AM for the owner to arrive, and was then finally was welcomed into the hostel, and couldn’t have been happier.  I was beyond exhausted from barely sleeping in the bus, and was given my bunk and I proceeded to sleep for about 6 hours.  When I awoke, I began chatting with Anna, a Russian from Moscow who had just arrived earlier that morning. 

Anna and I decided to have coffee and then plan out our route for exploring Vilnius since we were both traveling solo.  Luckily, she was a historian and had more than enough information about the city and country at large.  She had reviewed the options for exploration before she arrived (Can anyone imagine doing something so organized!?), and after about an hour we set out.

The wonderful summertime fact about the Baltic and Scandinavian states is that you don’t have to cram everything in before 5 or 6 PM.  You have bright sunlight until around 9 PM, and dusk until 10 or 11 PM.  It is the perfect situation for visiting a new city – no rushing to see everything, no sketchy walking around in the dark, and the general population is celebrating the fact that its not winter.  It’s perfect.
Around the Old Town in Vilnius
As we left our hostel, the questions between new travel friends began.  This is one of my favorite activities with people from countries that I haven’t interacted with before; Russia is one of those countries for me.  I had so many questions, and so did she.  It’s rare that an American and Russian are just walking around and chatting in Lithuania.

One of the first questions from Anna was the increasingly popular one I had heard hours before - “Why did you come here?  It’s not really an American vacation spot, is it?” 

No, Anna, in my experience it really is not at the top of our list.  I knew only one person who had been here, and she was someone who moved to the USA to leave the country years ago. 
From above the city in Vilnius
I explained that my flight to Stockholm was from Riga because I wanted to explore the Baltic States for a few days before moving on to Sweden.  I asked her the same question, and for her the response was that “to Russians, it is Europe without the price tag of France or Germany”. 

During our first day together, we visited the famous Old Town and saw Saint Peter’s & Saint Paul’s Cathedral, as well as spent a few hours learning the national history in the Upper Castle in Vilnius.  At the end of our time at the Castle, we hiked to the top of the picturesque Gediminas' Tower, which is a great lookout over the city, before exploring the local cuisine. 
Traditional cepelinai
The cepelinai, or didžkukuliai, were delicious, but incredibly filling.  I ordered “one” (which actually includes two), and I struggled to get through the first one.  Thank God I was able to force my second one on Anna.  We tasted the local beer as well, which was good, but not quite up to Belgian standards in my opinion.

By this point it was about 7 PM and getting “late”, but because of the sunlight available to us our day had only began.  We explored the Užupis neighborhood, which had some quaint as well as entertaining aspects; my favorite was the unique Constitution. 
 
The following day we visisted Trakai, one of the only castles completely surrounded by water in Eastern Europe; it is located about 30 minutes from the city of Vilnius.  We spent the morning exploring the actual castle.  The surrounding lakes and landscapes were incredibly peaceful, and Anna took advantage of the great weather for swimming – I hadn’t packed my bathing suit so I relaxed on the shore watching the sailboats saunter across the water.
One of the small docks in Trakai
Afterwards we wandered through a handful of the adorable lakeside boutiques, and had a very interesting discussion with a local woman around the age of 30.  She asked where we were from and our responses caused an immediate face of surprise - “You two are friends? But why?” 

I was starting to tire of this constant need for me to explain my Lithuanian choices to locals.  I simply replied, “Just because our presidents aren’t getting along doesn’t impact our option to become friends, does it?”  I again doubted my choices and myself – Lithuania will do that to you.

She quickly gasped, “That’s a beautiful choice” and then forced us to explain how we had met and our entire 24-hour friendship in detail.  She said she had never seen an American and a Russian friendship before.

I thought it was a blessing to have a day of exploring with someone who could shed so much light on the history and culture around me, as well as someone I enjoyed conversing with.  It had never once crossed my mind that because of our countries of origin that I should stay away from her or simply explore Lithuania alone. 

I know this sounds insane, but I thought that was a sadly honest evaluation of the world and the friendships that have the potential to workout or not.  I’m glad we both chose to spend time together and get to know more about one another’s cultures and personalities, and I’m sure that we will keep in touch.


The following morning I was leaving for Kaunas, and said goodbye to Anna, but was beyond grateful for our friendship and the time we got to spend together.
Traditional 3 window houses in Trakai