Park Bench for Four, Please

After a short bus ride across the tail of Thailand, we arrived at Surat Thani ready for our next island adventure.  Our options to get tickets for a ferry that afternoon to Koh Tao were somewhat limited, but we decided to test our Irish luck and head for the pier about an hour away.  We knew the time was tight, and with the help of the world's slowest taxi, we absolutely missed the final "Speed Ferry" departure of the day.

On the Ferry to Koh Pha Ngan

I was insistent that we arrive in Koh Tao by early morning the following day since we would be meeting up with our friend Brad, who is a fellow Yellow Jacket currently on the road.  Unfortunately that made our only remaining choice a night ferry.  This experience was another unique one that South East Asia had in store for us, and to save everyone my 1,000 words, please see my sister's face as we got settled on our ferry that evening...

Jennifer, overjoyed at our evening's accommodations

I would like to interject here that the "Overnight Ferry" and "Speed Ferry" take an identical route to arrive at each of the islands; during the day this constitutes an almost 2 hour trip, but transforms into a daunting 7 hour voyage after the sun sets.  We weren't sure if the tickets were cheaper due to someone actually rowing us towards our island destination, but we realized the reason for the budget pricing when we boarded the ferry.  We were corralled into sleeping quarters with about 70 other people and directed towards mats that reminded me of the last yoga class I attended.  Being the eldest, Caroline and I slept with Jennifer between us, effectively "protecting" our youngest (and most appalled) group member from the strangers who surrounded us.  Snuggled next to me was a full grown Thai man whose arm was over mine when I woke up in the middle of the night.  Lucky me!  Around 6 AM, we found ourselves waking up as we pulled into Koh Tao & were all too ready to get off the ferry.

We found a small cafe to recharge, both our bodies and devices, and begin our search for somewhere to stay on the island.  Within a few hours, Brad arrived and we celebrated with more "Koh Tao Guesthouse" Googling.

Seasoned Travelers after our Ferry

Brad was interested in getting his PADI Scuba certification during our time on the island so we went with him as he researched.  He chose Easy Divers, and luckily for us their staff graciously assisted us with finding accommodation for our time in Koh Tao.  We headed towards Happy Bungalows to drop our packs, and then immediately for the beach.

Like most islands in Thailand, the atmosphere on Koh Tao was very laid back.  We spent our days there basking in the sun, snorkeling in the Japanese Gardens, reading endlessly, and enjoying our new island home and the delicious food cooked fresh for us by Ping Pong, our guesthouse manager.

Our next move after Koh Tao was to Koh Pha Ngan, a backpacker's Mecca and the infamous party island home to the "Full Moon Parties."  Thanks to Brad, we headed on a ferry there on Wednesday afternoon unsure of what we would find.  Because our ferry was at 7:15 AM the following morning, we decided to find somewhere to store our backpacks, but opted against getting a place to crash after the party - Full Moon Parties continue well into the sun rising the following morning...

After a delicious dinner and relaxing at the restaurant for a while, we headed to a nearby park that we decided would be a suitable location for a nap before the party - it was only about 8:00 PM.

The options for lounging included two straight cement benches and a circular cement bench.  I wasn't tired so instead I entertained myself with watching Jennifer try and remain curled around the circular park bench without falling off...

After a few hours we were off in a taxi truck to the other side of the island to join the thousands of others who had made this pilgrimage to dance for hours under the full moon.  

Once we arrived, we immediately joined the festivities and decorated ourselves with neon body paint, purchased a bucket for J and some Chang for the rest of us, and headed for the beach entrance nearest us to find the best DJs and get the night started.

All I can say for the next 7 hours:  It.Was.Awesome.   

As for the rest of that day, post-6 AM: We.Were.Dead.  We almost missed one of our two flights to Cambodia, despite all being present (physically, at least) in the gatehouse over two hours before departure.  Luckily, a gate agent saw our still-painted, lifeless bodies and woke us up as they made the "final, final, final" boarding call.  

All in all, it was the epic experience we all thought it would be.  Honestly, it was one of the craziest parties I have ever seen, and I would strongly recommend it to anyone crazy enough to wait in Thailand until the moon is full and then willing to voyage to a remote island for some serious international raging.   

Chang! Cousins on Koh Pha Ngan

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Cambodian Island Retreat: Koh Ta Kiev, Koh Rong, Koh Rong Samloem

After a few days in Siem Reap, I was excited to be heading for the islands in southern Cambodia. 

When Sean and I decided to head for the islands from the mainland, we had no idea what to expect nor any particular direction in mind. Luckily, he asked around at our hostel, and found three other guys who recommended and wanted to join us to Koh Ta Kiev.  

Arriving in Koh Ta Kiev

We set out for the island on a snorkeling tour, and after diving for the afternoon we convinced the captain to simply drop us off and leave us on the island.  

After hiking with our packs through the jungle for a bit, we found a treehouse bungalow for rent for the night.  Initially the bungalow wouldn't comfortably fit all five of us, but then after hanging two hammocks to accommodate for everyone, our week in secluded paradise began.

Sean and I hiking through through the island to our Treehouse

We initially agreed that two nights in this island paradise would be nice, but two quickly became six.  

Our Treehouse Bungalow Home

All I can say for those days and nights, which were absolutely lacking in any normal amenities (though there was minimal electricity and water), is that I couldn't have been happier.  

From the huge bonfires that the boys built on the beach to trekking to the Absinthe distillery (I thought that was only made in the West), the week was perfect.  Each day was dotted with swimming, fishing, new friends, endless card games, live music, laughter, reading on the cozy balcony, and just relaxing.  

On Wednesday afternoon, we heard that there was going to be a Full Moon Party on Koh Rong Samloem, a nearby island, the following Sunday.  Knowing that we all wanted to head that way, but at a loss for how our "island life" levels of motivation would ever allow us to coordinate such a migration, we decided to discuss logistics over dinner.  

We didn't want to make any hasty decisions.  We needed time to reflect and think about our options.  Suddenly, there was too much going on.  We decided to take the night and think. 

Then we re-discussed our options the next day. 

And the next. 

On Friday, after a busy day of making sure all of the hammocks would sufficiently support afternoon naps, someone received horrifying news - we might have gotten the Full Moon Party day wrong.  All this talk of planning for nothing!  Was the party Saturday or Sunday?!  No one knew. 

Frantically, we gathered the troops for a quick meeting.  

"Seriously, we don't want to miss it!" someone solemnly started.  "We really should go check this Full Moon party out!"  This was met with passionate cries of affirmation from the group. 

Then it was decided for the fourth, and final, unanimous time: yes, let's go tomorrow.  

Now that our week's biggest challenge was settled, we once again retreated to the shaded hammocks to relax after the stressful afternoon.  

Then on Saturday, we, along with two island additions to our travel family, mustered all of our strength, donned our backpacks, and headed back through the jungle to catch a boat to Sihanoukville.  From there, we got another boat to Koh Rong, where we arrived early Saturday evening.  

To say we were proud of our accomplishments was an understatement!  After we arrived, we set off down the beach to find a place to stay, and then began to celebrate our relocation.  

The Full Moon Party, which turned out to be on Sunday night, was extremely fun!  With our group and other travelers we met, we danced and partied the night away.  Before we knew it, the sun had risen and it was time to return to Koh Rong and finally rest.  

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You're Never Alone When Traveling Solo

I have backpacked alone before.  My first experience was a few days in Prague, Czech Republic and then in Kiev, Ukraine back in 2011, but I was only "on my own" for a few days before meeting up with friends.   I also studied in Buenos Aires, Argentina "alone", but with university classes and a host family I do not consider that leap of faith very extreme.

This March was my first "solo" trip that I had planned, or at least roughly sketched out during a break between classes one balmy afternoon in Chiang Mai last February.  Armed with the knowledge from an amazing new friend in Chiang Mai who had spent time in Cambodia, as well as the quick tips offered by a professor who had visited previously, I decided the month of my 26th birthday would be spent in Cambodia.  This would be my first trip "alone".

My Cambodian Map for the Journey

As I stared at my black and white print out of the country from the university library, I grabbed a pen and started writing Temple names, useful phrases, currency exchange rates and circling the major cities that I hoped to visit.

Ta Phrom Temple in Siem Reap

Although that one sheet of paper gave me the confidence necessary to leave my new Chiang Mai University family at the end of the month, I found that I didn't rely on it while traveling.  I again relied on the suggestions from new friends, bunk mates, and locals to make my itineraries, which usually changed as the day went on - always for the best.

Night Out at Angkor What? in Siem Reap

Whether it be on the side of the road while our bus driver decided to stop for a smoke break, or at a new hostel Happy Hour, I have met so many travelers that I cant say that I've been alone at any point yet.  

Fresh Crocodile at our First Cambodian BBQ

Traveling with little more than my backpack and open mind has allowed me to visit places that are definitely off the beaten track.

By taking small leaps of faith and being comfortable to explore new cities "alone" I have bumped into more like-minded travelers than I had ever expected.

Now - about 21 days, 8 boat rides, one attempted half marathon, 7 bus rides, one fake border, 3 islands, one Full Moon Party, at least 10 tuk tuks, a crocodile BBQ, 5 motorbike rides, 4 hostels, one treehouse, many new friends, and countless amazing memories later I can confidently say that those recommendations and tips, along with the advice and tidbits from fellow travelers has been spot on - Cambodia has been great!

Sunset in Paradise in Koh Ta Kiev

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