Exploring The Balkans

If my high school teachers were informed of my seemingly endless stream of historical ignorance over the duration of these past twelve months, I’m sure they would immediately retire, claiming that their careers were held in complete vain.  Either that, or they’ve already come to this realization and continue on with a level of fortitude generally reserved to characterize the earliest pioneers and those stranded by blizzards while attempting to summit Everest.  To say that I’ve utilized Google Search this year is an understatement.  Hostel recommendations and city maps aside, my Google Search has been working feverishly, streaming history timelines and Wikipedia pages with the gusto of a university student with a thesis papers due within the hour.  I can honestly say that I wish I had paid closer attention and read all of the assigned materials throughout my plethora of history courses during high school and university.  Specifically when I find myself at bus stations in previously war-torn cities late at night…

Balkans Part II: Bosnia & Herzegovina

First Sarajevo impressions: a rather rundown city tram

I found myself wandering into Sarajevo quite unprepared for what lay ahead.  I realized that I had not heard much about the city or country since the war that occurred about twenty years ago (right?).  Exact dates, reasons for conflict, and outcomes escaped me as I descended off the bus into Sarajevo.  It was the icing on the cake of this particular day since I also had no hostel reservation, wifi connection, appropriate currency, or idea of where I should be going.  Oh, and it was dark.  

Ideal conditions for a solo female traveler...said no one ever.

Lovers Fountain in near the Bazaar

After (thank you, Universe) meeting Alex and checking into the wonderful Balkan Han Hostel, we met the charismatic owner, Unkas, who kindly recommended a tour of Sarajevo with his best friend, Hasan, the following morning.  We discussed the potential of the tour over a traditional Bosnian dinner, along with an endless string of questions that new traveling friends exchange: where are you from; what do you do; wait, what’s your name again?  The delicious, affordable Bosnian restaurant we visited (and returned to) was Restoran Dzenita off of the main street in the Stari Grad, or the Old City. 

Islam + Christianity = Zero (Hate/Problems) - My interpretation of this Sarajevo graffiti 

Sarajevo is a fun, safe, and vibrant city with an incredibly rich history, both ancient and recent.  Known as the “Little Jerusalem of the Balkans”, Sarajevo boasts the closest combination of mosque, cathedral, and synagogue in the region, which is a really interesting thing to see.  Although Yugoslavia was a communist state, there was freedom of religion under the rule of Tito, which is noteworthy and can be seen in Sarajevo.

Religious tolerance in Sarajevo: "The Little Jerusalem of the Balkans"

The collision of the Eastern and Western influences in Sarajevo, and throughout the Balkans, makes for a swirl of the best of both worlds, quite literally.  Think late night European bars mixed with early morning Turkish coffee and baklava.  What’s not to love!?

Sarajevo, like many Balkan cities, boasts a unique combination of Eastern and Western influences

As the days passed in Sarajevo, Alex and I explored the Ottoman Bazaar in the Baščaršija area, the Sacred Heart of Jesus Cathedral, the nightlife of the endless bars and pubs in the city center, and visited a few major historical landmarks such as the place of the Assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand.  

The historic location of "The Shot Heard Around the World"

This year marks the 100^th anniversary of the infamous “shot that what heard around the world”.  We also tried to visit the Galerija 11/07/95, which is memorial gallery and museum dedicated to those murdered in Srebrenica.  It's a very intense gallery, and reminded me of visiting the Tuol Sleng Genocide Musuem, known as the S21 Prison, in Phnom Phen earlier this year.

Statue of Pope John Paul II outside of the Cathedral of Jesus' Heart in Sarajevo

Although we went on the Free Walking Tour, we went on the hostel recommended tour of the city the first day we were in Sarajevo.  Usually I am not on board for paying full-price for tours but three of us from Balkan Han Hostel decided to give it a chance.  It was supposed to last 5 hours and we would ride in Hasan’s VW Golf, which we came to learn is a signature car for this region.  Either that or it was some sort of parting gift when the UN forces left.  Golfs are everywhere!

Hasan, our local Sarajevo tour guide

About 8 hours after we began, we found ourselves sipping a beer with Hasan and trying to stop our heads from spinning off.  I walked away with an incredibly detailed and emotional overview of the regional history, a painful, yet authentic local’s story of the events, and a million questions for the world. 

A more uplifting version of a 'Sarajevo Rose'

The plot line, characters, and outcome are sad in themselves, and when you consider that most people reading this were alive at the time of the conflict, I find it overwhelming.  The stories were uncomfortable, the realities were harsh, and the facts and footage are there. 

One of the many Sarajevo graveyards: mixed cemeteries were the norm since they didn't have enough room, or time, for religion-specific burials.

The starvation that defined their days, lack of clean water, endless bombings and consequent "Sarajevo Roses", organized rapings, “Sniper’s Alley”, and isolation all while the world watched is maddening to learn about.  Like so many cultures, the individuals have moved on from the loss, but haven’t forgotten the pain.  It’s hard to imagine moving on while being surrounded by buildings that are so ravaged by bullets that they aren’t save to enter…

Bullet laden buildings galore

I know that it is senseless to attempt to explain and comprehend subjects as complex and horrendous as war, but I was overwhelmed when we left the tour with Hasan.  Luckily, Alex and I would have time during our travels to chat, dissect stories and timelines, attempt to understand, and continue to explore the region’s history together.

On the Bobsled Track with Alex

There were some less emotionally draining points during time with Hasan including walking down the 1984 Winter Olympic Bobsled and Luge Track (one of the only ones in the world that you can walk on) and tasting Bosnia’s delicious version of burek at the popular Bosanski Burek Ispod Saca under the Stadion Grbavica.

Taste testing burek around Sarajevo

Sarajevo was a wonderful city, and Bosnia is a country filled with incredible people, delicious food, and a rich (albeit sad recent) history.  After a few days in Sarajevo, we were ready for a new adventure and booked overnight bus tickets and continued to explore former Yugoslavia – Slovenia style.