Polska: Part II

Despite my previous Holocaust and cultural confusion posts, Poland has been incredible*.  As I indicated in my previous blog post, I was not quite sure what I would find.  Luckily and contrary to my concerns, I found myself falling in love with the beautiful people, cuisine, and country. 

With the luck of the locations of my hostels, the Polish and international individuals I have had the opportunity to get to know during the past few days, and the beautiful cities and architecture I have visited the country has been nothing short of breath taking.  

Harbour in Giżycko

One of my Polish highlights came from my tour guide from afar, Dams.  He mentioned a hostel that he heard about in Gdańsk, so after my slightly strange night train experience, I headed towards Mama's & Papa's as soon as I arrived.  It was about noon when I reached the hostel, which was located about a five minute walk down a rather nondescript street (another cultural fun fact from Eastern Europe...I'll try to remember to note this in another regional post soon). 

The hostel is run by an amazing Polish couple, "Mama and Papa", who have been running the hostel for the past 3 years with hopes of expanding internationally within the next few years - my dream life!  I loved chatting logistics and development with "Mama" while "Papa" chatted over us about his love of the Grateful Dead...you can imagine the tone of the hostel.  It was the absolutely perfect place to relax; they had the newest Phish album blasting around the house...Hello, Heaven!

A Polish friend of theirs claims that the 6 bears are actually reps of the lonely 6 Polish fans...if they even have that many!

After exploring the Old Town on my first day in the new city, I returned and "Papa" asked if I wanted to hang out with some Polish friends who had come over to visit.  Since I was practically living in their house I was excited about getting to know them better so, like a good wannabe Pole and guest, I headed to get some beer from the local store for hanging out in the backyard.  On the way back to the hostel, I passed "Papa" stocking up on as many beers as his rather large bag would carry...I guess I'd remain a wannabe instead of impressing them with my attempted hospitality.

We had a great time chatting about music and culture, and as soon as I thought the language barrier was going to end our evening, his daughter drove up the small driveway.  She was in her early twenties and having grown up in the hostel had a healthy appetite for culture and already spoke about five languages fluently - my jealously was out of control!  She mentioned that she has visited the USA, spending time in Wisconsin and Chicago (I've come to learn that this is a popular choice of destinations for short trips for Eastern Europeans).  I shocked her with the knowledge that I've never visited Chicago, but that it's very much on my "Must See" list; the fact that I had only recently (within the past two years) seen Washington, DC was also a point of hilarity for her.  She was excited to share her Chicago experience with me, and I wish I had made the quick trip before my departure so that I  contribute more to the discussion, too bad!

We had a good time discussing the differences between Polish and American culture, and the fact that stood out the strongest for me was her incredulousness at the "perfection of US museums".  I tried to explain that most of them were forced on us at a young age, and that other than our Art and Science museums, most people steer clear of them until they force their own children to go visit.  She was shocked and claimed that there is nothing "that great in this country".  I tried to tell her how magnificent I thought the church and arts festival were, but she wasn't interested.  I guess the grass is always greener....

I spent one afternoon in Gdańsk exploring the Bazylika Mariacka, or Saint Mary's Church, and it was quite impressive.  The sheer size of the building is noteworthy, but when you consider the fact that it is the largest brick church in the world and then consider the dates of its construction (the 14th until the 16th centuries) you find yourself truly in awe.

Passing through the gate to the Old Town

Luckily for me, the annual art festival in Gdańsk was scheduled at the same time as my visit, and I was able to see traditional Polish art crafts, as well as many Pinterest worthy creations.  It helps to remind myself that my backpack is only so large when exploring exhibits like this!

During my stay with their family, I was also lucky enough to taste "Papa's" mother's homemade Polish food.  It was delicious but, as with most food in this region, extremely filling.  I ate two potato pancakes before feeling like I was about to pop, but obviously had to snap a picture to authenticate my Polish-ness for Damian.  In a few weeks, I am going to get the authentic recipes from his grandmothers...though he might have to translate for me.

I'm obviously a local.

After three nights in Gdańsk I headed for Gizycko, a city near the Lithuanian border, early on Sunday morning.  Although I didn't have any accommodations, I headed towards the pier and decided to chat with the "Information Booth" and see what they had to offer.  Luckily, the booth consisted of two teenagers who were beyond excited to practice their English, and within minutes they had a short list of about 20 guesthouses for me to call.  Unfortunately, at my first attempt I was stopped by the aggressive voice on the other end informing me "English...NO!"

Poor guy didn't realize I had my own personal Polish interpreter.  

What bilingual bestie doesn't like being harassed at (their time) 8 AM on a Sunday morning waking up to a fresh hangover and a desperate call that they need to immediately Skype and ask the prices for a hostel room for someone a few countries away?!

Damian was beyond thrilled, and when he attempted to stall and use his own Skype account that would be reactivated in "a few minutes" I immediately changed my account password to his name and sent him the details.  No time to waste.  In less than a minute I got a message from him that "there is a room, but it only costs $10 USD, which that doesn't seem right..."  It seemed perfect to me.  

The details of this entire story left me feeling quite inexperienced as a traveler, but I was beyond thankful to have Damian helping me.  The remainder of my time in the Masurian Lake District can be summed up by a few words: sun, sailboats, opera performances, cardio tourism, and a few new freckles.  

Not a bad first visit for the country I married into...

Beautiful lakeside Gizycko, Poland

*This message was encouraged and subsequently financed by Damian Brychcy and the entire Polish government.

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Pondering in Polska: Silly Signage, Vatican Haters & Drunks

Today marks day 10 for me in Poland, the motherland of one of my best friends on earth. 

In that time, I have been anxious to explore eastern Poland, but nervous with my timeline because I want to pack in as many Baltic cities as I can before my departure for Stockholm next week.  

Before my arrival, I didn't know much about Poland (I know, I know - I'm starting to sound like a broken record with how little I know about the countries I have been visiting...), but I have learned a good amount over the past few days through observation, questioning, and simple confusion which leads to my ceaseless pondering after certain events occur.

I have a few blog posts worth of notes that I'd like to share on my time here, but the most glaring points of confusion will be housed in this one.  I'll utilize the photographs I've taken as much as possible to leave room for the readers to join me in the confusion. 

Part 1: Silly Signage

I usually don’t pay much attention to road signs in other countries.  This is based on the fact that I am absolutely never driving, and if I find myself on a bike I just use the bike lane or hope for the best.  Usually a combination of the two.

If a specific sign jumps out at me I might comment on it or laugh to myself, but over the past week and a half there have been more than a few run ins with signs that have left me wondering long after I’ve left the location.

For the first two, I was simply overly entertained (please note: Jennifer was absolutely not) at the translations.  Admit it, when you read the Polish word together with the English version it’s sounds like ebonics and proves to be a bit comical…

Yo, who's seen my 'grupy group'?

Where those damn 'toalety toilets' at?

Back to my semi serious note, the other signs have me utterly confused.  I actually returned to one in the middle of rush hour traffic to take a picture of it because I was so intrigued (it’s the 'girl holding a flying balloon/safety guard' one).  If anyone honestly has a guess at what these mean, I would love to hear it. 

First of all, would this have been speed limit 00?  From there - street art at its finest!

I checked, and didn't notice any stickers or other add ons to the original sign...(other than the left side graffiti)

No towns allowed to be established this way? There was in fact a town behind this sign, adding to my confusion...

Left one only: No family suicides?  Or no parents abandoning kids on rocking horses on the bridge?  Guys, I'm lost...

Part 2: Vatican Haters

Warning: I have to disappoint Marist/upset Catholics with this portion of my post.  

Coming from a Catholic education and family, I have to be honest when I say that I only know three popes well.  First there was Peter (that's almost the extent of my knowledge about his papacy), then there was someone else, then there were a few more someone elses, then there was JPII (Polish - I loved him), Benedict XVI (German - ehh), and now we have Francis (Argentine & whom I also love).

The rest of them - not much of a clue off the top of my mind as to who they were or what they changed.  At this, my partially pre-Vatican II mother and Mr. Pearson, my AP Euro professor, are undoubtedly cringing I'm sure along with the entire Marist community - oops, sorry guys!  If you had asked me the details of the many papacies upon my completion of AP European History at Marist, the answer would have been completely different and quite thorough, I mean, I got a 4...  Unfortunately, I haven't been reviewing those notes as of late. 

  Like most people with presidents, the ones I know best were those alive during my lifetime.

That being said, I thought having a pope from your country would mean automatic national support - I don't know why I thought this.  In my opinion Pope John Paul II was well received by the general Catholic and international political population.  Also, if you have a pope from your country that is just cool, right?  It doesn't happen often, so I had assumed that it was a point of national pride at some level.  As with most assumptions, I wasn't spot on.

With the local Catholic church bells ringing the hour in the background, followed by a chime of Ave Maria, Jennifer and I joined the Free Walking Tour of Krakow.  About halfway through our tour, we stopped to view this alarming piece of street art.  This was commissioned by the city of Krakow, where Pope John Paul II lived (although he was born in Wadowice, Poland).  The city paid an Italian (also interesting to note) street artist to paint this piece a few blocks off of the city center in Krakow.  I was startled to say the least.

The Catholic Church commanding the masses; if you look closely the Papal Keys are on the speaker

'The Masses' below the speaker up close and an ominous message: Never Follow

As you can see, the speaker appears just as those below him - no one has hair or eyes.  Although they are "the same" (both the followers and the leader), the speaker is commanding the masses through the megaphone, which has the Papal keys on it.  

Our tour guide said that this piece was intentionally put in Krakow to suggest to everyone that you should constantly question what you are being told, and that no man is greater than any other man - no one should be allowed to command without question.  All good notes and quite true, in my opinion. It is also interesting to me that this piece was put near the Jewish Quarter of the city where the ghetto was located during the Nazi occupation.

After briefly considering the strangeness of such a pointed message in proximity to the late pope's quarters, we continued our tour.  We later were in the town square market where we considered purchasing a crucifix, but were deterred by the absorbent prices; like most markets, these sellers know to mark them up because many people have come to see the Pope's apartment as a sort of pilgrimage.

Overpriced crucifixes: the one we considered was almost $300 USD

 After leaving Jennifer, I headed by train to Gdańsk in the northeast.  Luckily, I was visiting at the same time as their annual arts festival.  The Academy of Fine Arts in Gdańsk was also showing a new contemporary exhibit.  Per my pre-Lil J tradition, I was excited and decided to check it out.  

Most of the pieces were as you could imagine: a half-finished project in the "name of art"; a partially completed Pinterest quilt thrown over a mannequin; a chair that someone had been sitting on before they realized the exhibit opened today, thus prompting them to turn it in for credit; a montage of mainstream hatred shown through consumed, or simply wasted, Coca-Cola bottles.  (Sorry art lovers, I have to jab contemporary art after seeing some of the pieces...) Contrary to those (true) previous comments, the exhibit overall was quite nice, and the ability of the artists in most pieces was impressive and thought provoking.  

As I entered one of the last spaces, I was again shocked by the presence of such an anti-Catholic message in this country; the piece itself was quite moving.  I hesitate to say that the piece in its entirety can be appreciated without seeing it in person, but if you're Catholic, I think you can imagine what it is saying.  

If you're not, here are the SparkNotes: "Standing at the side of the altar, the priest washes his hands and quietly prays, 'Wash me, O Lord, from my iniquity and cleanse me from my sin.” This prayer is a reference to King David’s psalm of repentance (Psalm 51) in which he repents from his sins of adultery and murder. It is a reminder to the priest of his own sinfulness and unworthiness to stand before the altar of the Lord and offer the sacrifice of the Mass.'

Part III: Drunks

Deep breath.  I'm finished with the heavy, religious part.

My third, and final, observation about Poland: the plethora of drunks. 

Morning, noon, or night.  You name the time, they're drinking - vodka, beer, whiskey - anything but water.

Coming from Ireland, you'd think that I wouldn't notice much of a difference in terms of the daily alcohol intake.  As a wonderful local educated Jennifer and I in Galway "We changed a bit; not so many of us have our 5 or 6 pints before work like we use'ta. More of us gotta drive, ya see."  

Well, I can attest that Polish public transportation is fantastic, and I guess that's a national blessing.  Trains, trams, buses - they are all great.

That being said, from 8 AM until noon there is a stale vodka smell on everyone's breath that takes me back to freshman year of college.  Walking to the Gdańsk bus station early this past Sunday morning had me reminiscing on all of the times that I walked through a fraternity house after a three day party.  Bottles and bodies everywhere.  Not many resembling living beings.

This brings me to the about 487th other question and thought I've had regarding Polish culture in the past 10 days, but as my computer is about to die I will have to save those for another blog and leave you with this picture.  It was taken at 7:15 AM at the bus station McDonald's (it was all that was open for coffee & breakfast, I'm not proud of being there).

Two bros who couldn't hang any longer PTFO

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