6.3.15

Kathleen On The Roof!

6.3.15 Posted by Nikki Carlson , , 1 comment
One of my favorite parts about traveling is meeting new people. The network of likeminded travelers is amazing, enhanced and even allowed at times by social media and the connectivity that constantly surrounds us. But my favorite part of connecting with new people is the random information - conversations, stories, jokes, recommendations, and advice - that is exchanged at such random, yet precise moments. 
"If you don't like me, go shoot yourself" - A friendly message from Putin
This morning over toast that was covered in condensed milk ("Have some, it's Russian!"; the resulting recipe sits on my hips and on the scale between horrifying and straight-up genius) I was asked my surname by the guys who cooked us traditional Russian caviar and smoked fish pancakes last night. (The past 12 hours have been a culinary adventure to say the least...Also, these guys are great!)
Dinner at the hostel
I told them Carlson, and they immediately  started giggling. I learned that Carlson (in the Scandinavian spelling) is one of the most beloved Russian fairy tales for children, Karlsson On the Roof, which was written by Swedish author Astrid Lindgren. 

Selfie in front of the Golden Horn Bridge in Vladivostok
Upon learning more about Karlsson through a quick Google search, I found out that he is described as "a handsome, thoroughly clever, perfectly plump man in his prime" and his motto is "doesn't matter, doesn't matter". He obviously eats condensed milk pancakes for breakfast every day. YOLO!

Caitlin and I also learned that 'Lonely Planet' is a Russian dating site after mentioning that we were going to use it to get around Russia, a probably more appropriately named site than its famous travel advice counterpart. 

Start of the Tran-Siberian Railroad (!!!)
Tonight, Caitlin and I are making a meal to repay our new Russian buddies, and will probably learn many more new fun facts. 

Hostel life
Then, we are packing up our bags and leaving first thing in the morning for the first (and 3 day) leg of our Russian adventure on the Trans-Siberian Railroad. 

Adventuring around Vladivostok
Think: 50-some roommates, two bathrooms, endless shared food, card games, vodka, and a lot of charades. For three days. Without stopping. 

Caitlin and Aleksei
To say I was anything but absolutely thrilled to ring in my 27th birthday in this manner would be a complete lie. I'll weigh in on new lessons and experiences when we get back to wifi in a few days. I'm sure we won't return empty handed. 

Friday market in Vladivostok
So to 'Tomorrow Being Worse' and today being filled with condensed milk - Cheers!

5.3.15

'Tomorrow Will Be Worse'

5.3.15 Posted by Nikki Carlson , , No comments
After months of preparation, visa attempts, and confusion at why we even wanted to visit to Russia in the middle of the winter, Caitlin and I finally arrived in Vladivostok!(!!!!)
This has been a Bucket List item of mine for a few years, and after taking an incredible Russian History class at GT Caitlin had it on her list, too. 
We met up (stressfully, but thankfully) the night before our flight into Vladivostok in Chuncheon, South Korea where Caitlin had been teaching English for the past two and a half years. Packing up and saying goodbye to such a momentous chapter is never easy. Luckily we'd soon replace this bittersweetness with the bitter climate in southeastern Russia and have new things to consider, such as how any human population survives with so much snow and where could we purchase an authentic fur hat. 
Caitlin at the airport, our taxi driver lurking in the background. I want his hat.
When we got to our hostel after skidding across an endless expanse of ice and snow that they call roads, we decided to adventure to the local store for dinner. This included me sliding down stairs due to the excessive amounts of snow covering the stairs and more consideration at how anyone survives in so much snow. We also actively wondered why people attempted to summit Everest; we were only battling the elements for snacks and beer. 
When we returned and began to chat with fellow hostel-goers, we were commenting on the insane amount of snow. Upon pouring us welcome drinks our new friends, locals from Vladivostok, laughed at us and cheerfully toasted that "Tomorrow will be worse!" We decided to ignore the cultural and climate implications of that message and drink up!

My next few posts (hopefully a few throughout our month here) will be short, blunt and cold because I'm trying to assimilate into the Russian culture. Thanks for following along! 

15.2.15

My Time in Portugal

15.2.15 Posted by Nikki Carlson , , , , , , , , , No comments
Panoramic view of Porto, Portugal after sunset
Today marks my last day in Portugal, and the end of a great experience working in and exploring this beautiful country.
Faro is definitely "Some City"
During my short weeks working at Casa d'Alagoa, I have become great friends with my co-workers, the hostel owners and many of our guests alike. This hostel won "Best Atmosphere" from the renown website HostelBookers last year, and it doesn't take long to realize why.
Around Faro
As I mentioned in my previous Portugal post, working here has been a great fit for me and an exciting experience in learning more about the "behind the scenes" of this particular industry.
View of the city from atop the Cathedral (Faro)
In my previous months of traveling, I have enjoyed making my way through new countries, regions, and continents at a leisurely pace with nothing but time and my belongings on my back.

After this experience and being able to explore Portugal as the opportunities and days-off presented themselves, I have to admit that having a home while on the road, both physically and emotionally, has been absolutely incredible. As much of a juxtaposition as it is, having a home while traveling has given me a great new perspective on the variety of travel options available.


Faro, as a city, is notoriously laid back.  Located in the heart of the beautiful Algarve region, it's a popular destination as well as transit city for those on their way to the surrounding national parks, home to endless bird watching and stunning scenery.
Like the rest of the country, the locals in Faro focus on sleeping in, long coffee breaks with local pastries, sarcasm in every possible scenario, succulent home cooked meals, and thirst-quenching libations such as the locally cultivated wines and spirits.  This culture, not surprisingly, agrees with me.
One of the many, many pastries and cakes I have tried during my time in Portugal...YUM!
The Portuguese as a people are open and relaxed, and luckily for me (and you if you're ever considering Portugal as a destination spot) they speak English very well. From the bus drivers to the shop owners, everyone is kind, helpful and willing to assist you in English.
If you have 'No Comment' then you can't sit on the bench? Around Faro, Portugal
I have been impressed by the kindness of strangers across the globe, but in Portugal it feels like everyone is your personal tour guide and new friend. And who can argue with that?
Lagos, Portugal
During one of my first days off, I decided to take the 5-euro and 2-hour bus to Lagos and explore the city with a friend from the hostel, Sam, who was headed there to work in a hostel. Although the weather alternated between sprinkling and sunny for the duration of the afternoon, the city was relaxing and the beaches were beautiful.
Outside the city walls in Lagos
From the pier, Sam and I could see a pod of dolphins jumping and diving though what we assumed was a school of fish. It could not have been more than 30 meters from our viewpoint, and was really cool to see. At the same moment, a small boat was passing near the pod, and the dolphins followed the boat into deeper waters, I'm sure their view was unbelievable!
When the sun finally decided to come out in Lagos
The beach was stunning and absolutely empty. If I have learned one thing while on the road, off-season is usually a scam concocted by locals to scare off tourists for part of the year. Remember how much Patti, Patrick and I loved Croatia in October? To me, wearing a scarf on the beach beats elbowing selfie-taking tourists for a spot on the sand... Luckily, Lagos was no exception.
Amazing sunset in Faro
During my next set of days off I decided to venture to the capital city of Lisbon, locally called Lisboa.  Like Lagos, the weather was spotty for my first morning there, but cleared up and allowed for an impressive sunset in front of Belem Tower on my first night.
Belem Tower, Lisbon
During my time in Lisbon, I stayed at Home Hostel, which won the award for "Best Medium Hostel in the World" last year and rightfully so. That night, I joined the group there for a homemade dinner and drinks before the hostel's pub crawl. If there's one thing Portuguese do well, it's night life and dancing. I was absolutely exhausted (hungover.) the next day as I boarded the 3 hour train back to Faro.
Discoveries Monument, Lisbon
Lisbon, apart from the exciting night life, is a beautiful and vibrant city. Portuguese are quick to remind visitors, and anyone who will listen, of their rich and influential history, whose legacy can be seen throughout the city.
Impressive Jeronimos Monastery in Lisbon; Vasco da Gama's resting place
Famous 'Pastel de Nata' created by the Jeronimo monks, served with espresso
During my time here, I have been schooled on the colonies, explorers, and general historical timeline of the country time and time again. Depending on the level of intoxication of the impromptu history teacher, the intensity of the lesson fluctuates; regardless, the issue of Christopher Columbus' nationality was always addressed.
Discoveries Monument up close
By addressed, I mean argued completely unopposed usually at a group of open-mouthed tourists trying to figure out when the lighthearted Portuguese sarcasm was replaced by an intense nationalism. As quickly as it appears, it generally dissipates and the conversation drifts back to how attractive Cristiano Ronaldo is, a topic that quite frankly can not be argued by anyone with eye sight. He is so attractive, that I'm sure his looks can even be effectively communicated to those with impaired sight.
After my trip to Lisbon, I wanted visit the northern cultural capital of Porto, or locally called Oporto, home of the famous Port wine.

Pena Palace View, Sintra
On my way there, I stopped off in Sintra, outside of Lisbon, for the afternoon. I hiked to the Pena Palace and Gardens, which was one of the most visited tourist sites last year. Like their website states, the palace "seems to come right out of a fairy tale."
Pena Palace in Sintra, Portugal
I spent the majority of my afternoon in Sintra exploring the vast palace grounds after I explored the palace itself. Like the palace, the grounds have a fairy tale like quality and were incredibly beautiful and peaceful.  

I even happened upon a small pond with swans. You don't get much more beautiful and regal than that. Side note: I went to see the Portuguese National Ballet perform Swan Lake with my co-worker Ally in Faro a few days before seeing these swans. They are such beautiful creatures! (Both the swans and the dancers.)

The viewpoints from the palace are stunning and in the distance you can see to the western-most point on continental Europe. It's incredible to imagine that a few hundred years ago, this is the point where many believed the world simply stopped.  Columbus, regardless of his nationality, was one brave dude.
Pena Palace looking onto the Atlantic in the distance
Pena Palace was beautiful and the perfect weather made the vibrant colors of the structure even more impressive. The city of Sintra itself is quaint. Initially it seemed overrun by tourists, but as the crowds dispersed onto their respective tour buses (ew.) I was left alone walking in complete peace and solitude.
On the way to Pena Palace, Sintra
I didn't see anyone for about an hour after entering the garden grounds after visiting the palace. The ponds, paths, and dense foliage makes for a wonderful escape from the noises of Lisbon. To be honest, this might have had something to do with my timing; it was a bit after lunch which means the entire Portuguese population was enjoying their daily siesta.
Around Sintra
Later that day I arrived at the incredible Gallery Hostel in Porto. Seriously, Portugal, nicely done on the hostel-front! I met a few new friends (shout out to Ramona and Gerald!) and enjoyed the homemade dinner at the hostel.

More famous than their wine, Porto was home to JK Rowling for a few years while she taught English and spent her days in the numerous cafes and bookshops through the city. As you walk along, you can spot the inspiration behind many themes, characters, and details of her famous Harry Potter series.
Livreria Lello, bookshop that inspired HP's wand shop scene (Porto)
Being a HUGE Harry Potter fan, these little details were quite fun to point out...much to the dismay of my new friends.
Griffin(dor!) fountain in front of the University of Porto
In addition to the HP clues (!!!), Porto is filled with endless cafes (!!!), art galleries (!!!), bookstores (!!!), bars (!!!), parks (!!!) and restaurants (!!!). I don't know if you can tell, but I sort of liked Porto...I felt like the city was made just for me.
View over Porto
Gerald, Ramona and I spent a beautiful day lunching next to the Douro river, touring and taste testing in the Porto wine caves, and enjoying the panoramic view of the city from atop the monastery viewpoint. My time in Porto was definitely a highlight of my time in Portugal.
Peacocks roam freely throughout most of the parks (Faro)
Coming back to Faro was like returning home, as strange as that may sound. I had both my bed and my little travel family waiting for me. After crashing for a few hours, I was back to my "new normal" routine.
Wrong turn took me on a tour of the Faro airport
My last few days included exploring more of Faro, saying goodbye to my co-worker Allie, saying olá to new guests and friends, and packing my backpack for my next adventure.
Bones Chapel in Faro
Like always, I don't know if or when I'll be back to Faro or Portugal, but I hope it's one day. My time here has been wonderful and all of the memories will be cherished. Até a próxima vez, Portugal!
My last sunset on the Faro marina

28.1.15

(Seasonal) Dreams Do Come True*

28.1.15 Posted by Nikki Carlson , , , No comments
Yesterday was a pretty great day.  I landed my dream job.

Well, technically, I "landed" it by accident a few weeks ago.  And as Jeff Goins states in one of his posts, it's probably more accurately a "seasonal commitment" towards my dream job.  But regardless of the technicalities, I'm stoked.
For the past few months, I have been utilizing HelpX (a work/travel site) to connect with hosts from around the world in attempt to learn new skills and explore new cultures while I travel.  It hasn't been an obsessive commitment, but it's been consistently on my radar.  Finally, my half-assed emailing and less-than-ideal timing collided in southern Portugal because of a last minute change.

So, you ask, what is this "Dream Job"?

I'm working at a hostel.  (Check out the website here.)  Think hotel-esque reception tasks: tours for new guests, cleaning dorm rooms, being in charge of the intense task of picking the hostel music, inviting people to our family style dinners, helping confused and giggling guests find their room after self-directed pub crawls, setting up breakfast, and the like.  In general, I'm supposed to talk with guests and make sure everyone's happy.  Talk to other travelers and be happy?  Twist my arm.
For years, I have toyed with the idea of running a hostel or bed and breakfast at some point "down the road".  After a brief run in with restaurant management, I knew that the road towards that end point would be arduous and filled with moments of doubt, if in fact it remained my own personal goal.  I needed to start small and build from there, enjoying the process and taking it easy.  Well, 'Day 1' has finally come.

Over these past few months, I have been on an interesting journey of self discovery.  In between border-crossings and cultural exchanges, I have shaken up and dusted off old dreams.  Taking my time and giving these abstract thoughts consideration and form, then re-forming them, and then finally sleeping on them for a few more months has been just what I needed.  As the saying goes, patience (or as some less optimistic onlookers may say laziness and distractedness) is a virtue.  The fit here is great.
Like many, the past few years have held a multitude of chapters for me.  There have been moments of personal accomplishment, gut-wrenching heartbreak, extreme happiness, and moments of clarity and confusion in spades.  

Last night after completing my first day on the job, I walked down to the pier to an incredible sunset while soaking up my new "hood" (before getting impressively lost on my way home, especially considering the size of Faro).  While I was soaking it in, I reflected on some of these moments.  I found myself laughing out loud.  It wasn't some sort of a crazy witch cackle, and, no, thanks for asking, I had not been drinking on the job.
Old Instagram Picture
I laughed because my thoughts drifted ever so momentarily to a few key voices that had attempted in vain to keep me from getting to this point.  There weren't many of them, but there were a few.  I just smiled as I thought about how lucky I am that I have always had a bit of trouble hearing, thanks to incessant ear issues as a child.  

I am far from deaf, but I guess for all of the ear tube surgeries, infections, ear drops and lookin' like a fool in the pool with my ear plugs and swim cap throughout my childhood, I gained an incredible gift.  Deafness to the haters.  I didn't dwell on these thoughts for too long, but I just laughed to think that I might not have followed my heart to get to this place, both physical and emotional, and pursue my dream, however seasonal, in traveling and hostel employment.  I'm glad that I chose to, in the wise words of Ms. Taylor Swift, "Shake It Off" when those voices came along.  

The result: Portuguese hostel bliss.
Part of our common area at Casa D'Alagoa
So to everyone who has been asked or who is asking what exactly I'm doing with my life - I have no clue. (Does anyone? Because if you said yes, you're deranged or lying.  Probably both.)  You wake up and take one day at a time.  Today and tomorrow the plan is to chill at the front desk of Casa d'Alagoa and chat with likeminded humans and see what surprises the day holds for me.  Most likely, that includes an evening sunset by the pier, followed by some great conversations and new friendships.

Spoiler Alert for my "immediate future": after my three days of work, I get two days off.  Since I'll probably be exhausted from my off the charts happiness at watching one of my dreams begin to take form, I've planned a well deserved escape for R&R to Lisbon.  Life is tough sometimes, people...

*This post is brag-adocious, I already know that.  My life is amazing, so #sorrynotsorry.  If it makes you feel any better, I hope that yours is, too.